I forgot to note why GROFF_NO_SGR needs to be set when starting xman on #FreeBSD:
During compiling, xman.c checks which OS it's being compiled on & hardwires `nroff -mandoc` as its page formatting aid if it detects the BSDs. However, nroff's mandoc macros output ANSI escape codes, while xman expects typewriter-style "back up & overstrike" codes.
That is, unless GROFF_NO_SGR is set. The only places I found it documented were on the Internet (for Linux-specific xman weirdness) and in the grotty(1) manpage.